Dale Lovell visits Hungary’s south-western corner and discovers a land rich in culture, history and, perhaps most pleasingly of all, wine.

If your idea of Hungary is of a post-Communist country struggling to come to terms with capitalism; an industrial landscape of smoking spires, high rise tower blocks and Trabants, think again. As we made our way along the road to Pécs, Hungary’s fifth largest city and soon-to-be European capital of culture in 2010, I have to admit I was surprised to see the same cars on the roads – Peugeots, Mercedes-Benz, BMWs, and Renaults – as we have in the UK.

And if the advertising billboards and the seemingly ubiquitous presence of MacDonald restaurants is anything to go by, Hungary has moved on quickly from its enforced flirtation with Communism.

A Travel Guide to Pécs

Pécs, by far the largest settlement in south-west Hungary, has been the cultural hub of the region for over two thousand years. Throughout this time numerous cultures - Romans, Turks, Germans, Croatians and more - have squabbled for dominance, leaving the city with a uniquely chequered history, something which is reflected in its architecture.

But thankfully, Pécs has been spared the architectural extremes of the last group – the Communists - to dominate the city, and the disgustingly bleak Communist-era tower blocks are few and far between. The old centre remains refreshingly intact in fact, with beautiful old buildings and quaint streets making it the ideal destination to explore on foot.

The History of Pécs

A good example of the city’s history and interesting past can be seen in the main square, where the Gazi Kasim Mosque still stands, and, although consecrated as a church following the retreat of the Ottoman Turks centuries ago, the crescent moon and cross of Islam are still visible on the cupola. Indeed, Pécs is the richest town in Hungary in terms of Turkish architecture, with the ruins of Memi Pasa’s Baths and the mausoleum of miracle worker Idris Baba, just two other notable remains.

A Travel Guide to European Capital of Culture 2010: Art in Pécs

But it’s not just Turkish architecture that Pécs has to offer. The stunning neo-Romanesque Cathedral, with its detailed decorations, is an excellent architectural example, while the nearby UNESCO World Heritage listed site of an early Christian cemetery (construction work is taking place until November 2006), dating back to the fourth century AD, is arguably the best place outside Rome to see examples of early Christian art and religious motifs.

With a large student population, Pécs also has some excellent museums, some of which are home to Hungary’s most prestigious collections. An undoubted must-see for anyone visiting Pécs is the Vasarely Museum, displaying the work of renowned artist Victor Vasarely. Vasarely came to prominence in the 1960s with his optical artworks of the zebra and geometrical cubic art, much of which anyone with only a passing knowledge of art will instantly recognise. Pécs is also home to a moving piece of art entitled The Street, by one Hungary’s best known sculptors Erzsébet Schaár. The piece is, as the name suggests, a sculpted street; visitors walk along it and are able to see the faces of famous Hungarian artists and others staring back at them. The piece was made in the 1970s and was supposedly created to show the alienation of modern society and it really is an eerie piece of work! Just some of the other museums in Pécs include the Gallery of Modern Hungarian Art, the Archaeological Museum and the Renaissance Stone Works Museum.

View a slide show of images from Pécs and the surrounding area, Click Here

Nightlife in Pécs

The other benefit of the large student population in Pécs is that the city has quite a few bars to choose from and maintains a lively feel long into the night. However, anyone looking for a future stag-do destination or clubbing capital will be disappointed. But that said, the beer was exceedingly cheap (£1.20 approx a pint) and there were plenty of people milling about the bars in the evening for those on a short getaway not to feel self-conscious or think they were visiting an out-of-the-way backwater.

Restaurants in Pécs

Eating out in the city is not a problem either, as there are numerous restaurants and pubs from which to choose, although Hungarian cuisine is the order of the day. If you like home cooking, especially stews of any variety, soup with dumplings, pickled cabbage and any sort of meat dish you can imagine, including something referred to as a Gypsy Roast (like a gammon mixed grill, but even more salty) then Hungarian cooking – heaped high and hearty - is for you. While vegetarians may find it a bit of a strain to get by, most restaurants do have something on the menu that does not include meat.

Wine in Pécs

Less than an hour from Pécs, along winding roads through picturesque villages and hamlets where the pace of change is far less apparent, is one of Hungary’s best wine growing regions, the Villány -Siklosi wine route.

Named after the two main villages in the area, Villány and Siklosi, the region has gained international fame over the years for producing some exquisite white and red wines. Villány is the centre for the best concentration of wine producers and due to the size of the village it is easy to visit several wine cellars on foot. Among the best producers are: Josef Bock, ‘Wine Maker of the Year in 1997’, who also has several Grand Prix awards under his belt; Gere Attila, ‘Wine Maker of the Year 1994’ and new comer Csaba Malatinszky. All of these vineyards offer wine tasting sessions, ranging in price from just £2.50 to taste six wines with a cheese plate to £8.50, depending on the wines. Pre-booking is essential. Pony and trap rides through the village and surrounding countryside are also available from many of the wineries.

We visited the Malatinszky Mansion Vineyards. Formerly a sommelier in one of Hungary’s best restaurants, Csaba Malatinszky only opened in 1997 and is already producing some of Hungary’s best red and white wine, with his Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay, particularly outstanding. A must for any wine fan to visit in Villány however is the impressive Polgar Winery. From the outside, the property looks little more than a shop or a café-bar but inside visitors are directed down winding corridors into the Polgar vaults; a labyrinthine network of corridors and cellars dating back to the Middle Ages and home to thousands upon thousands of bottles of wine. The vaults have been converted into a restaurant in parts, but the deeper vaults still store wine, largely for private collectors, the Swedish pop group Abba among them.

It is possible to stay overnight at several of the wineries mentioned and many also provide transfers from Pécs if necessary for an additional cost. Accommodation is very reasonable too, with a stay at the Polgar Winery costing just £33 for two per night, or at the Bock Cellars Guesthouse from £15 per person.

If you have an interest in wine and are looking to expand on your collection with delightful Hungarian wine that costs considerably less than it would back home, or even if you just enjoy having a nice meal in delightful surroundings, then the village of Villány is well worth a visit. And here’s another incentive for wine buffs: all of the vintners we spoke to believe that the 2006 crop could be the best yet!

Short Breaks to the Croatian Coast and Budapest.

If you are looking for a short break destination rich in culture and history, where there is not a traffic jam in sight, the people are friendly and the sights virtually tourist free, then Pécs and the surrounding countryside are well worth a visit. If, on the other hand, you are planning on a longer trip touring Central Europe, Pécs is less than four hours from the Croatian coast and two hours from Budapest, making the area a natural stop-over spot. Either way, you will not be disappointed by this fascinating corner of Europe.

The ideal itinerary: Spend one or two nights in Pécs, exploring the city’s architecture, museums, restaurants and bars, and spend an extra night in Villány sampling some of the finest wines direct from the source!

A Travel Guide to Hungary: Hotels in Pécs

The Hotel Kikelet: Located on a hill overlooking the city the Hotel Kikelet is a three star plus hotel. Rooms are very large, with beautiful views of the city, as well as a Jacuzzi, sauna, solarium and two restaurants with roof terrace. Prices from £68 per night, with buffet breakfast. www.hunguesthotels.hu

Hotel Palatinus: Conveniently located in the heart of the city in a beautiful turn-of-the-century building, the Hotel Palatinus is a three star hotel with a delightful banquet hall. Services include sauna, massage and steam bath, restaurant with vegetarian kitchen. Special offers available from £23 a night. www.danubiushotels.com

A Travel Guide to Hungary: Find Out More on Pécs

The Official South-West Hungary Tourist Board - www.southwesthungary.hu

Hungarian National Tourist Office Tel: 020 7823 0411 www.gotohungary.co.uk

Information on the museums in Pécs - www.jpm.hu

The Polgar Winery - www.polgarpince.hu

Malatinszky Mansion Vineyards - www.malatinszky.hu

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